"Every restaurant has air conditioning;
the rest is in the details"

JoAnn Clevenger

Life in a city as old as New Orleans has its own cycles and its own rhythm. Few people are as intimately knowledgeable of the authentic New Orleans as Upperline’s owner, JoAnn Clevenger. This list of JoAnn’s favorites is your ticket to one person’s personal odyssey. Welcome to the real world of the city that care forgot.

JoAnn Clevenger, grew up in rural Alexandria where her love of the traditional cuisine of Louisiana was instilled at an early age. Says JoAnn, "My first paid job was gathering pecans on my grandfather’s small farm. I was 7 years old and thrilled to collect two cents for each pound. Helping with chores on a farm is a beguiling passage to the pleasures of the table."

"As a child," says Joann, "I loved books and longed to be transported to a land of theater, museums, art, music and literature." So, JoAnn left her rural home and moved to the French Quarter in the late 1950s. Although she relished rubbing shoulders with musicians, artists, writers and other

bohemians of the day, food remained central to her life. JoAnn continues, "I did it all – carhopping at a root beer stand to flaming crepes suzette table side. So many kinds of food, so many kinds of people. Presto! Happiness! For an hour or two I was the bearer of sustenance and pleasure to almost every table."

JoAnn’s passion and independent streak led her to become a creative entrepreneur. She owned Andy’s, a legendary folk music bar on Bourbon Street where on any given night one might see the likes of Joni Mitchel or Richie Havens. JoAnn also launched a fresh flower vending cart business and vintage clothing store in the Quarter. She eventually returned to her first love, the cuisine of Louisiana, in 1983 with the opening of Upperline. The restaurant quickly garnered national recognition for its inventive Creole cuisine. "We opened with lots of optimism and no money for the first week’s payroll. What a wonderful journey it has been," says JoAnn.

JoAnn’s rich life experience has bestowed her with an authentic wisdom for discerning the needs and expectations of her guests. Generally regarded as one of the finest hostesses in a city famous for its hospitality, JoAnn is well known for her charm, her heartfelt laughter that can be heard across the crowded dining room, and her genuine sincerity in striving to present the best possible restaurant experience.

U p p e r l i n e--L a g n i a p p e

An evolving list of some of our favorite pleasures in New Orleans.

Favorite Dishes at OUR Favorite Restaurants

Oysters Mosca and Chicken La Grande at Mosca’s, Desserts at Windsor Court Grill Room, Oysters Bordelaise at Mandich, Plate Lunches and Po-Boys at Elizabeth’s, Sweetbreads at Bayona, Tchoupitoulas Cheesecake at Dick & Jenny’s, Specials at Peristyle, Gumbo at the Gumbo Shop & Dooky Chase, Crabmeat Maison at Galatoire's, Oysters with Brie at Clancy's, Goat Cheese Salad at Gautreau's, Appetizers and soup at Brigtsen's, Pasta with Tasso Cream at K-Paul's, Bread Pudding Soufflé at Commanders, Lamb at La Provence, BBQ Shrimp at Café des Amis in Breaux Bridge, Fried Green Tomatoes with Shrimp Remoulade & Theme Dinners (Jane Austen, Monet, Thomas Jefferson, Babette’s Feast) at Upperline.

Locals love to lunch; less formal and less crowded. Always call ahead for hours, etc.

If you love a particular dish or restaurant, be sure to vote for it at

www.zagat.com

Temptations – the huge selection of local cookbooks at Aunt Sally's Praline Shop in the French Market. Howard Mitcham's Creole Gumbo and All That Jazz is my favorite.

Masking on Mardi Gras Day and walking down St. Charles Ave. to the French Quarter

Mask Makers & Shops – Gabriel at Quarter Moon, Mike Stark’s Little Shop of Fantasies & John Fleming at Rumors

Guides to Art & Music – Gambit Weekly, "Lagniappe" in Times-Picayune on Friday & Offbeat magazine

Favorite View of New Orleans & the Mississippi - Omni Royal Orleans romantic rooftop

Art – our wonderful museum (NOMA) in lush City Park; Julia & Magazine St. galleries; Mardi Gras Indians by Michael P. Smith at A Gallery for Fine Photography on Royal Street; Martin LaBorde Gallery at 509 Royal. Neal Auction Company & New Orleans Auction Gallery

Special Treasures – Lucullus for grand wine & food related antiques; Soniat House antiques; Kruz (ethnic fabrics); Whisnant’s (ethnic antiques). Bits and pieces of old Mardi Gras finery, vintage clothing, jewelry & art at Le Garage (Owner Marcus Fraser is always up to date on what's happening in the Quarter and Marigny).

Sweet Smells - Sweet Olive trees in the Cathedral garden, vetivert at Hové Parfumeur, night blooming jasmine and honeysuckle all around New Orleans

Music: Non-profit FM Radio Stations - WWOZ for New Orleans jazz, rhythm & blues - 90.7 FM & WUNO for Classical, & NPR - 89.9 FM * Ask for our "Local Music Guide"

Books - Ask for our guide to out- of-print bookshops & independent bookstores