The original meaning of the word ‘restaurant’ was ‘to restore’ and, says JoAnn Clevenger, “Restaurants were originally more than just a place to find a meal; restaurants existed to soothe and bolster the weary soul with comfort and indulgence. Like the earliest restaurants, my goal for the Upperline is to be a haven for our guests, restoring their serenity after the daily hassles of the world with great Louisiana food, serious wine, and Creole hospitality.” But Upperline is more than just a restaurant, it is a way of life and a strong fixture in the local community. From festivals and charity fundraisers, to theme dinners and business etiquette courses for some of New Orleans’ most renowned universities, there is always something going on at Upperline.
Perhaps Frommer’s Guide to New Orleans said it best, “Get out of the Quarter. Get out of the Quarter. Get out of the Quarter. Are we getting through to you? Hop on the St. Charles Avenue streetcar first thing. Admire the gorgeous homes along the way. Aside from its historical significance and interest, this neighborhood, full of fabulous houses and lush greenery, is just plain beautiful. At night, sample what’s new and happening in New Orleans cooking. We recommend the more-or-less contemporary Creole food at the Upperline. Today you must begin to see what else New Orleans has to offer.”
Ken Smith is Upperline’s executive chef. A nine-year veteran with the Upperline, Ken’s Creole culinary roots run deep. Growing up in Natchitoches, Louisiana, he was fascinated by the bold flavors and delicious aromas of traditional Louisiana cooking that suffused his childhood.
“The first meal I ever prepared was a cake,” says Ken. “I was 10 and it was too hot to play outside; my mom was at work and I found her Betty Crocker cookbook. I went straight to the desert section.”
It is no surprise, then, that Ken would attend Delgado Culinary Academy in New Orleans and seek out a career with the Upperline. What defines Ken’s passion is his desire to break down barriers to culinary exploration. According to Ken, “Popular media promotes the notion that one must be very gifted or fortunate to create cooking with heart. The truth is every person has the soul of a chef inside them.”
An avid collector of out-of-print cookbooks, Ken’s culinary interests range much further than his Southern roots. You are just as likely to find Ken shopping for Lemongrass or Thai eggplant in the Asian markets across the river from New Orleans, as you are to find him shopping for merlitons or Creole tomatoes in the French Quarter.