When I encounter a person who professes a dislike for the food of New Orleans, I resist the temptation to respond by pointing my forefinger at the poor soul an crying, "Fool."

Instead, with deep-felt sympathy, I am likely to say, "Have you eaten at the Upperline?"

If the answer is no, I say, "Oh," and leave it at that.

The Upperline would have several strong assets in any competition to name the quintessential Crescent City dining spot.

One is the stetting, a sprawling 123-year old townhouse decorated by stunning flower displays and a garden as well as an eclectic collection of locally created art.

Another is the menu, which features Creole, Cajun, and creative dishes. Kenneth Smith, executive chef for the last year, is steeped in culinary history and eager to have the food prove his contention that traditional Southern fare, "always comforting, can also be subtle, contemporary, and sophisticated."

The easiest way to test this contention, and to overcome any trepidations about New Orleans food, is to order the seven-dish Taste of New Orleans. If the duck and andouille etouffee with corn cakes and Louisiana pepper jelly doesn’t wine you over, the fried green tomato with shrimp remoulade will. Other gems in the kitchen’s repertory include a pairing of bronzed catfish and barbecued crawfish, slow-cooked mustard greens and a lemon tart brûlée.

The third great asset the Upperline possesses is its owner, JoAnn Clevenger. An astute critic wrote that Clevenger "came to the Upperline via flowers, costumes and theater talents which help make the restaurant a pleasure and a delight." She has the charm and energy to pull off the difficult feat of making first-timers feel welcome while keeping her many regulars feeling special.

The Upperline is open for dinner only Wednesday through Sunday.

William Rice, Chicago Tribune - September 30, 2000